Creating garments that fit perfectly can be a challenge, especially when using commercial sewing patterns that are drafted for standardized sizes. However, adjusting patterns for a custom fit is a skill that can greatly improve the outcome of your sewing projects. By making simple alterations to the pattern pieces, you can ensure that your finished garment will flatter your unique body shape and proportions. In this article, we will explore some of the key techniques for adjusting patterns to achieve a custom fit.
Understanding Pattern Ease
Before diving into the process of adjusting patterns, it is important to understand the concept of ease. Ease refers to the amount of extra space added to a garment beyond your actual body measurements to allow for movement and comfort. There are three main types of ease: wearing ease, design ease, and negative ease. Wearing ease is the minimum amount of extra space needed for a garment to fit comfortably, while design ease is added for stylistic purposes. Negative ease, on the other hand, is when a garment is designed to be smaller than the body measurements for a snug fit.
Measuring Yourself Accurately
To adjust a pattern for a custom fit, you first need accurate body measurements. Using a flexible measuring tape, take precise measurements of your bust, waist, hips, and any other areas that are relevant to the garment you are making. It is crucial to measure yourself while wearing the undergarments you intend to wear with the finished garment to ensure a proper fit. Once you have your measurements, compare them to the size chart provided on the pattern envelope to determine the size that corresponds to your measurements.
Choosing the Right Size
When selecting a pattern size, it is essential to choose the size that corresponds to your largest measurement. For example, if your bust measurement falls into one size range while your waist measurement falls into another, select the size that matches your bust measurement. You can then make adjustments to the pattern to accommodate your other measurements. It is always easier to take in a garment than to let it out, so starting with the larger size is a safer bet.
Adjusting the Bust
One common adjustment that may be necessary is altering the bust area of a pattern to accommodate a larger or smaller bust size. To increase or decrease the bust size, you can perform a full bust adjustment (FBA) or a small bust adjustment (SBA). For an FBA, you slash and spread the pattern to add extra width to the bust area, while an SBA involves overlapping the pattern pieces to reduce the bust width. These adjustments ensure that the garment fits properly across the bust without gaping or pulling.
Lengthening or Shortening
Another common adjustment is lengthening or shortening the pattern pieces to fit your height. If you are taller or shorter than the standard height that the pattern is drafted for, you may need to add or remove length from the bodice, sleeves, pants, or skirt pieces. To lengthen a pattern, you can slash the pattern piece horizontally and spread it apart, while to shorten a pattern, you can fold out the excess length along the designated lengthen/shorten lines.
Altering the Waist
If you have a significantly smaller or larger waist measurement compared to the standard pattern size, you may need to adjust the waist area for a better fit. To reduce the waist size, you can taper the side seams towards the waistline, creating a more fitted silhouette. Conversely, if you need to increase the waist size, you can add width to the side seams or use darts to create shaping at the waist.
Customizing for Your Unique Shape
In addition to standard adjustments for bust, length, and waist, you may need to make more personalized alterations to accommodate your unique body shape. This could include adjusting for a sway back, broad shoulders, narrow shoulders, or a full abdomen. By understanding your body shape and how it differs from the standard pattern measurements, you can make targeted adjustments that result in a garment that fits you like a glove.
Conclusion: Perfect Your Fit
Achieving a custom fit with sewing patterns requires patience, practice, and a willingness to experiment. By mastering the art of pattern adjustments, you can create garments that not only fit well but also make you feel confident and comfortable. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced sewist, taking the time to adjust patterns for a custom fit will elevate the quality of your handmade wardrobe. So, grab your measuring tape, scissors, and muslin fabric, and start perfecting your fit today!
