Some of our fabrics need a little more of our attention!
Sometimes referred to as ‘special fabrics‘ on a sewing pattern, great care is needed when we sew.
Never more so when working with check or plaid fabric!
Let me explain.
[toggle title=”Lay Planning”]How we lay our sewing patterns onto our fashion fabrics determines how a finished garment will look.
More importantly, the lay of our sewing pattern pieces has to be CORRECT!
If you go wrong at this early stage, it’s back to the drawing board I’m afraid.
When working with check or plaid fabrics, more care needs to be taken to ensure lay planning is performed correctly. This type of fabric is not ideal for every sewing pattern and may require more fabric depending on design.
The design itself is where common mistakes are made. Depending on the design (stripes, checks, plaids), we have to identify and determine whether or not the fabric will require a single lay, or folded for a double lay.[/toggle]
Working with Checks and Plaids
NB: Remember! The trick here is to identify the pattern within the fabric. Is it repeating throughout?
1 Fold your fabric in half and then fold back one corner.
2 Look at one side of the fabric and identify an area / shape, i.e. a square shape within the checks.
3 Find the exact same shaping on the other side of the fabric (the area you’ve folded back) and try to match up half of the shape with that found in step 2.
Your results will be as follows:
If the shaping is identical (the square is complete and symmetrical), then the pattern is repeated, meaning a double lay for your sewing pattern pieces.
If the shaping is distorted in any way and the square is not symmetrical, then the pattern is non-repeated, meaning a single lay for your sewing pattern pieces.
A quick and simple technique to use to combat those early fashion sewing frustrations!
If you’ve got a question or want to share your knowledge with the sewing community, then please do by leaving your comment in the box below this article.
Happy fashion sewing.