Have you ever had to use the odd piece of scrap fabric during garment construction?
I think for many of us the answer would be a resounding YES!
Whether it’s used to come to our rescue in a problem area, an add on or used in the many other ways scrap fabric can be utilised, one problem still exists:
Nine times out of ten – It WON’T have a selvage!
And if there’s no selvage:
How are you going to know where the grain lines are?
Do you know the importance of being able to identify, and then work with your fabrics natural grain?
Do you know the difference between your crosswise, lengthwise and the bias grain?
If the answers no to any of the above, DO NOT start ANY sewing projects as you’ll never achieve a professional, well made garment.
Before you go any further, I urge you to read the following articles here at Fashion Sewing Blog –
If you’re ready to continue, let’s carry on!
[toggle title=”Using Scrap Fabric”]It’s fair to assume, that as a fashion sewer (no matter your level of expertise), you’ll have lots of spare pieces of fabric to hand.
I know I have.
Each and every sewing project you complete will leave you with bits of fabric of all shapes and sizes. And of course: Waste not, want not!
These spare, odd and scrap pieces of fabric can be used, sometimes years later, during other sewing projects.
Whether it’s facings, pockets, collars or other areas, we need to know and identify our scrap fabric grain lines before we cut into the fabric and begin to use it. And I’ve a neat little trick to show you, using only a HB pencil and ruler.[/toggle]
Finding Grain Lines on Scrap Fabric
So here’s what you’ll need:
• Scrap fabric
• HB pencil
So far so good!
Now to identify the grain lines in your scrap fabric:
1 Find the area in your scrap fabric that you want to use.
2 Place a finger firmly at one end, and, using your pencil, draw a line.
3 Draw another line opposite to the first (vertical/horizontal OR horizontal/vertical). You should have an + marking now drawn onto your fabric.
4 Using your ruler, hold it against one of the lines.
5 If the line is straight and flush with the ruler, you’ve identified the lengthwise grain. If the lines is uneven against the ruler, you’ve identified the crosswise grain.
6 The bias can now be identified at a 45 degree angle from your markings.
A great little tip and technique to follow, and one that should alleviate some common fashion sewing frustrations.
Happy fashion sewing.